Textiles as National Heritage: Identities, Politics and Material Culture

Book Cover

Imprint

Acknowledgements

Contents

Introductory Remarks (Gabriele Mentges)

Decolonizing Heritage

Narratives of the Silk Road: Uzbekistan

Textile Heritage and National Identity

Crafts in Motion

Signifying Identity

Consumption Scapes: Bazaars and Other Shopping Sites

Performing Cultural Heritage

Bibliography

Between Design, ‘National Dress’ and Nation Branding. The Dynamics of Textile Culture in the Process of Uzbek National Formation (Gabriele Mentges)

Textile Cultures Now and Then

Performing textile traditions

National Dress

Uzbek wedding rituals and their impact on gender constellations

The Material of Tradition

Traditional Dress: A Hidden Fashion Discourse?

National Fashion and Textile Design

Nation-State, Fashion and Self-Orientalization

Bibliography

Fashionable Roots. Textile Heritage in Contemporary Fashion Design in Peru (Susana Aguirre)

Introduction

Peru’s Fashion Industry

Fashioning Peruvianness

Designer Meche Correa

Brand: Escudo

Designer: Naty Muñoz

Conclusion

Bibliography

Textile Tradition in Kazakh Contemporary Fashion (Gulnar Soltanbayeva)

Textile Heritage

Designing Kazakh Tradition

Bibliography

The State of Textile Arts in Today’s Kazakhstan (Ardak Yussupova)

Of Dyes and Colors. Cultural Change in Uzbek Textile Crafts (Melanie Krebs)

Natural dyes of Central Asia

The emergence of synthetic dyes

Re-inventing natural dyes after independence

Conclusion

The Rehabilitation of Khon-Atlas (Lola Shamukhitdinova)

Introduction

Technologies and the Historical Agenda of Khon-atlas

Dress Practices and Style

Does Khon-atlas Have a Future?

Bibliography

Sources

Uzbek Skullcaps. A Popular Headwear between Traditional High Quality and Touristic Souvenir (Lola Shamukhitdinova)

A Brief History of Central Asian Skullcaps

The Skullcap as Brand

Making the Skullcap Fashionable

Skullcaps and Their Changing Significance

The Skullcap as a “Cultural Resource”

The Issue of Quality: Some Recommendations

Conclusion

Bibliography

Tuskiiz – A Cultural Memory of the Kazakhs (Zhazira Zhukenova)

Artistic and Aesthetic Content

Unique Technical Features of Tuskiiz Using Appliqué

Tuskiiz Using Chain Stitch

Figurative and Symbolic Meaning

Tuskiiz Using Appliqué

Tuskiiz Using Chain Stitch

Bibliography

A Mosaic Picture of the World. A Close-up on Kazakh Kurak Patchwork (Gaini Mukhtarova)

Kazakhstani Traditions and Rites Associated with the Art of Kurak

Patchwork as a Way of Passing on Qualities and Protecting against Evil Spirits

The History of the Emergence of Kurak Patchwork

Special Features of the Kazakh Kurak

Kurak as the Philosophy of a Mosaic Picture of the World

Modern Uses of the Kurak Technique

Bibliography

Bazaars, Shops, Malls. Points of Sale and their Meaning for Textile Culture in Uzbekistan (Gabriele Mentges and Lola Shamukhitdinova)

Research on Bazaars

The Bazaar in Central Asian Cities

Structure and Organization

To shop – But how and where?

Who they are – the dealers/tradesmen

The Bazaar and Tourism

Contemporary transformations

Old Central stores: ZUM and GUM

Cities and Bazaars: An Outlook to the Future

Bibliography

Istanbul Markets. A Reloading Point for Uzbek Craft Textiles (Gabriele Mentges and Lola Shamukhitdinova)

Silk Road – Central Asia – Uzbekistan? The Collections of the Linden-Museum in Stuttgart: Evaluation and Interpretation in the Time of Emerging Nation-States of the Post-Soviet Era (Annette Krämer)

Introduction

The Origins of the Linden-Museum and its Central Asian Collections

Friedrich Kussmaul, Iran and Afghanistan: A New Focus

The “State Museum,” the Orient Department and the Discovery of “Turkestan” and “Turkmens”

Discovering “Uzbekistan:” the 1990s

“Uzbek Textiles” in Stuttgart – An Outlook

Bibliography

Safeguarding Uzbek Textile Crafts. Strategies and Impacts (Binafsha Nodir)

What Does the Term ‘Traditional Uzbek Textiles’ Cover?

Weaving

Embroidery

Traditional Crafts in the Context of Colonial Modernization

Strategies and the Revival of Traditional Uzbek Textiles

Museum Collections as a Source of the Traditional Arts Revival

Bibliography

A Repository of Mediterranean Memories. How a Ritual Dress Has Become a UNESCO Cultural Heritage of Humanity (Leyla Belkaïd-Neri)

A Complex Vestimentary Heritage

Facing Political Disinterest in Dress Culture

The Unprompted Roots of a Social Phenomenon

The Awakening of Governmental Authorities

Selection Criteria

A Repository of Mediterranean Memories

Negotiating Identity through the Rediscovery of Vernacular Styles

Bibliography

Complete Bibliography

Authors